Martin Margiela
Contents 7 sections +
Contents
Overview
The sources and panel disagree on 2 points, described under “Viewpoints and evidence”.1,2,3
At a glanceSourced facts
At a glance
Background
According to The Hollywood Reporter, margiela co-founded his label with Brussels boutique owner Jenny Meirens in 1987.2 According to The Hollywood Reporter, about six years into the label he co-founded, he stepped back and refused to be its public face or spokesperson.2
Key facts
According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, he left Maison Martin Margiela in 2009 after more than 20 years with the collective.1,4,5 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, after his departure, a team without a public face continued the house’s collections.1,4 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, as a child he first encountered fashion on television through André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne.1
According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, margiela worked as a design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris between 1985 and 1987.1,6 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, margiela worked as a design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier until 1987.1,6 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, Accounts place the beginning of Margiela’s Hermès design tenure in 1998, distinct from his 1997 appointment announcement.1,2,7
According to Marc Jacobs, in 2016, Kanye West posted 99 archive images from Maison Martin Margiela on Instagram.1,4 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, Vetements’s autumn–winter 2018 collection explicitly referenced Margiela’s work, including split-toe footwear.1 According to Dazed, in April 1997 he was announced as creative director of Hermès.1,6,7
According to Dazed, since 1988, Margiela presented deconstructed designs including back-to-front garments and split-toe shoes.1,7 According to Dazed, his designs included garments intended to be worn backward and split-toe footwear.7 According to The Independent, Margiela’s label used nonprofessional models in some presentations.8
According to The Independent, until recently, he presented clothes on non-professional models rather than professional models.8 According to British Vogue, product ranges in the label are numbered 0 to 23 as reference codes rather than chronological order.4 According to British Vogue, Margiela's presentation methods included seating editors and buyers by perceived importance and wheeling models out on trolleys.4,8 The label's design team has been located at a particular site since 2005, according to British Vogue.4
Viewpoints and evidence
According to i-D, i-D described that 2009 exit as quitting his own company at the peak of his success.1 According to 20 things you need to know about martin margiela, margiela worked as creative director at Hermès for six years, from 1998, a point on which the panel's sources or readings disagree.1,2,3 According to Dazed, fashion coverage identifies Margiela as a pioneer of deconstructed clothing.7
According to Dazed, at Hermès, Margiela focused on quality and timeless wardrobe pieces inspired by 1920s sports and leisure clothing rather than avant-garde concepts.7 According to Kaat Debo, Kaat Debo observed that Margiela’s work remained visible in other designers’ collections years after his departure.7 According to The New York Times T magazine, the New York Times’s T magazine called him the most elusive figure in fashion even after 20 years in business.8
The Independent writer argues that Margiela should not be labelled anti-establishment because he deeply respects craftsmanship and design tradition, though he might be called godfather of the European avant-garde.8 According to Vogue UK, Margiela's 1989 collection challenged conventional notions of what luxury could be.4 According to British Vogue, Margiela’s namesake label had attracted attention for its approach to luxury by 1989.4
According to British Vogue, British Vogue dates his first major challenge to ideas of luxury to a 1989 collection.4 According to British Vogue, Maison Margiela continues after his departure, with a faceless design team; it had 14 stores worldwide at the time of The Independent's report, a point on which the panel's sources or readings disagree.1,4,8 According to British Vogue, margiela is widely regarded as an honorary member of the Antwerp Six design cohort.4
Designer Bob Verhelst said Margiela's first silhouettes were a shock and showed him to be far ahead of his peers.4 According to Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs asserted in 2008 that anyone aware of modern life is influenced by Margiela.4 According to WWD, WWD expects the art show to prompt debate about what counts as art.5 According to Fashion Model Directory, margiela refused to act as the public face of his brand, avoided photographs, and reportedly gave interviews only by fax.2,6
By the end, I became, in a certain way, an artistic director in my own company. And that bothered me, because I’m a designer. I’m really a fashion designer, and a designer who creates, and I’m not just a creative director who directs his assistants.
Sources
- 120 things you need to know about martin margielai-d.co · Other · Tier C
- 2New Martin Margiela Documentary Chronicles Fashion’s Most Elusive DesignerThe Hollywood Reporter · Other · Tier C
- 3Didn’t Make It to Antwerp for “Margiela: The Hermès Years”? See Rare Images From 8 of the Designer’s Collections for the House, HereVogue · Other · Tier C
- 4Martin MargielaBritish Vogue · Other · Tier C
- 5Martin Margiela Makes Art World Debut With a Show About NothingWWD · Other · Tier C
- 6Martin Margiela - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMDThe FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com · Other · Tier C
- 7The untold story of Martin Margiela’s time at HermèsDazed · Other · Tier C
- 8Martin Margiela: FashionThe Independent · Other · Tier C
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Image plates

Lifeline
1987–2009 · scroll to travel1987
1996
Trompe l'oeil printed viscose jersey dress by Maison Martin Margiela, 1996Wikimedia Commons ↗
Trompe l'oeil printed viscose jersey dress by Maison Martin Margiela, 1996Mabalu · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons 1997
1997 Maison Martin Margiela white dress and red coat, Winter 1997-98 collectionWikimedia Commons ↗
1997 Maison Martin Margiela white dress and red coat, Winter 1997-98 collectionwe-make-money-not-art · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons 2009
Maison Martin Margiela hair scarf made in 2009 for the 20th anniversary of the house VOKSUK…Wikimedia Commons ↗
Maison Martin Margiela hair scarf made in 2009 for the 20th anniversary of the house VOKSUK archives(personal collection)Mvoksuk · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons 2009
Maison Martin Margiela 2009Wikimedia Commons ↗
Maison Martin Margiela 2009Helena · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
5 dated events from this entry and its sources · Elapsed: years since 1987, the first dated event



